JEITINHO BRASILEIRO

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Jeitihno Brasileiro.  

As I have mentioned in the previous posts, social norms no Brasil (and especially in Rio) are more laid back compared to in the United States.  As the director of international programs at my university, Pontificia Universidade Catholica, was explaining people’s concept of time during orientation, she put it bluntly that, brasileiros and cariocas are always late.  If you plan to grab drinks with a friend, one should show up at the bar  15-20 minutes after the established time.  If you are invited over for dinner party at someone’s home at 6pm, never arrive within an hour before 7pm.  Even for important business meetings, it is perfectly acceptable to be more than a half hour late if you bump into a friend who is having bad day and need to get a quick coffee with them to catch up.

As someone who has a mild (mild could be an understatement according to some who know me) tendency to rush in order to be punctual for different events, I fully welcomed the relaxed attitude that is jeitihno brasilero (and used it to receive full attendance and tardiness my first month of class despite showing up after 8:30 am several times).  People are not accustomed to hurrying and worrying here.  They take things slowly and soak it all in.  It is no doubt, a refreshing change of pace from the States.

I discovered last week, however, that jeitinho brasileiro certainly has a more negative side.  I was at the Policia Federal (immigration authorities) to verify my student visa and pay my taxes for the duration of my stay.  Although I showed up way past my scheduled appointment, I was still accommodated (eventually), but the process was maddening.  There simply was no standard protocol.  The fine folks who work there frankly did not give a damn about it either.  People not in line bypassed those standing patiently to complain and were heard out, if the employee beind the counter took a liking to them.  If they didn’t like you, good luck,  because they would fault you on any technicality possible and make your time there living-hell.  I know someone who arrived at 10am and did not leave til well after 4 pm while someone arrived at 2pm and waited a mere hour and a half.  ON THE SAME DAY!  You quickly understand how some of the World Cup stadiums are so far behind schedule and why so many brasileiros are up in arms about bullshit bureaucracy from the government and FIFA.

But on that note of soccer stadiums, lets transition to a more positive subject.  Yesterday I attended my first futebol match at the legendary Maracana.  The stadium was the site of the World Cup Final in 1950 when Brazil was upset by Uruguay, and will again host the final game in 2014.  Hopefully O Selecao reach the last game and are victorious this time to boost the morale and attitudes of locals who adamantly oppose Brazil hosting the World Cup due to exorbitant public spending on the games and corruption.

This weekend, local rivals Flamengo and Fluminese squared off at the Maracana in their first match of the year.    And although the construction fees may have come at a premium, the venue is indeed beautiful–there is not a bad seat in the house.  The stadium was not full, this being the Rio Cup, instead of the more importantly rated Serie A league competition, but the atmosphere was still incredible.  I was sitting behind one goal right next to the Flamengo socios (ultra-fans).  Flamengo boasts the most supporters in all of Brazil and are considered the people’s team. No particular class is now associated with the team, but the club has an interesting history involving political prisoners during the country’s military dictatorship and the Comando Vermelho drug-trafficking and criminal organization.  Fluminese won the match 3-0 and were the superior team in my eyes, but the Flamengo socios far outnumbered there counterparts, with their many songs and chants constantly reverberating around the stadium.  The Flamengo team did not bring their A-game, but their supporters certainly did.

When it comes to futebol, fans certainly are not relaxed and casual.

They drop the jeitinho brasileiro in favor of hardcore passion.

Can’t wait for the next game.

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SEM VERGONHAS

“Sem Vergonhas,” ie, without shame or embarrassment.  On the first day I arrived in Rio, our exceptional study abroad program director, Matt Ryan, taught all of the students this key phrase.  Although certain precautionary measures to ensure safety were made perfectly explicit, we were also encouraged to fully embrace learning Portuguese, our new home-stays, and the whole trip in general.

It is hard to let go of all reservations and take a dive into the deep end–I have never previously lived in a foreign country, and truth be told, barely spoke any Portuguese before two weeks ago.  But, it cannot be overstated that a little effort goes along way.  A few cariocas are quick to roll their eyes when Americans, like myself, butcher their sentences when asking for directions or ordering a juice drink.  The vast majority, however, genuinely appreciate attempts at Portuguese and more than willing to spend the time deciphering your message and even give you a few tips on how to improve.

Cariocas themselves are famously well-known for wearing tiny thongs or sungas (whether they have a six-pack or potbelly), their flexible sense of time and punctuality, and laid-back lifestyles in general. This friendly and accommodating attitude makes it all the easier to keep speaking, eating, playing, and living, “sem vergonhas“.  I have never been happier expanding my navigation skills and familiarity with the geographies and neighborhoods of Rio, knowledge of exotic fruits and juices, and Portuguese Vocabulary.

That being said, I think I took “sem vergonhas”, to a borderline-dangerous new level learning samba at a huge dancing hall last night.  I’ve never taken dance lessons before and was a bit reluctant.  But after a lesson and caipirinha, I said “fuck it” and went for broke.  I sambaed my ass off. Maybe the best night in Brazil thus far.

The lesson; release your preconceived notions and stereotypes, embrace everything new in your surroundings, and don’t hold back.

Live life, “Sem vergonhas”.

JOGA BONITO

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Joga Bonito; these words (the first Portuguese I learned) inspired my desire to come to Brasil eight years ago.  The best translation to English is, “Play Beautiful”.  They are of course referring to the game of Soccer, Association Football, or Futebol, depending on where you are from.   I began playing futebol when I was seven years old, but as an American kid with parents who were not fans of the sport, I seldom followed the game at the professional level.  Leading up to the 2006 World Cup, Nike released an ad campaign with “Joga Bonito” as the slogan.   The sportswear giant’s brilliantly entertaining commercials piqued my interest and a family vacation to Europe in June 2006 transformed me from a teenager who played soccer for fun into an obsessed futebol fan.

I will never forget the night I saw Brasil thrash Japan 4-1 in the group stages of the globe’s premier sporting event.  My family was staying in a predominately Portuguese neighborhood in London, so naturally all of the restaurants and bars were packed with a sea of people clad in the famous canary-yellow color that is synonymous with the Brasilian National team.  My dad and I picked the place nearest our hotel and made our way through to the bar.  The atmosphere was overly boisterous and happy with people shouting, chanting, and singing for the entire 90 minutes and beyond; I couldn’t get enough and was hooked on the sport for life.

Despite entering each of the last two tournament as favorites and boasting a squad overflowing with world-class talent, Brasil have not made it to the final since they won their historic and unprecedented 5th World Cup Title in 2002. Brasil bowed out to runners-up France during the quarter finals in 2006, and were again eliminated by the 2nd place team (Netherlands) four years later in South Africa.  Media were quick to criticize the country’s perceived under-performance and many suggested that the team had betrayed the daring, joyful style of play always associated with their previous success, especially after 2010.  Following a triumphant 2013 Confederations Cup where the team exhibited the briefly-thought-lost swagger, Neymar and company will be desperate to redeem O Selacao’s past two tournaments and lift the Jules Rimet trophy on home soil for the first time.  

And I will be in Rio de Janeiro to watch (if god willing I can extend my six month visa until August) !  I would be lying if I said the World Cup was not a big part of me studying abroad in Brasil this semester.  As an Urban&Environmental Policy Major, however, there is no better learning lab than Rio as the city undergoes rapid transformation in preparation for this summer’s world cup and the 2016 Olympics. (More to come on that in future posts).

It is hard to believe it has already been eight days since my plane touched down in the Cidade Maravilhosa.  During that short time I have already taken in the views from Sao Corcovado, sipped my first capirinha, and of course, kicked the ball around at the famous Ipanema Beach.  I am finding the city to be breathtakingly beautiful, easily accessible, and pleasantly safe given a few precautions.  Of course it is the local people, cariocas, who make the location’s exceptional geography a truly special place.  They are patient with my steadily-improving Portuguese, and more than anything, incredibly friendly and outgoing. There is a popular saying that cariocas “work to live”, rather than “live to work”, and one cannot come to Rio without getting a sense of this.   For me “Joga Bonito”, is not exclusive to the Brasilian National Team or any other elite futebolistas who featured in Nike’s videos.  It is an extended metaphor for how the people of Brasil, and Rio in particular, go about their daily business.

Joga Bonito, meus amigos!

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